Cilantro
(South Western California Cuisine)
Think back to August of 1988, the Olympics were fading into memory and Calgary was just beginning to be discovered by the world. New restaurants were opening expanding the styles of food available to the local Calgarians and visitors. Now fast forward to August 2004 and you will find one of those first ‘new’ styles of eating establishments still a going concern. Cilantro is that restaurant offering a mix of South Western California style cooking with a local Alberta flair. This mix of styles has been the template that many successful establishments that followed have used.
Cilantro is located at 338, 17th Avenue SW on what has recently come to be known in Calgary as the ‘red mile’. Housed in one of the older remaining buildings on the avenue the dinning room is all dark wood and muted walls. When you add candles for the evening dinner you create a cozy environment filled with jazz music for a backdrop. Cilantro’s patio is a well kept secret as it is walled off from street level creating a secluded atmosphere afternoons or evenings. For a slightly more relaxed experience pass through the dining room and move upstairs to dine in the lounge, where you can sit on the balcony or next to the open windows while the smells from the Forno oven waft by.
We began our evening with two appetizers, a marinated roasted Portabella mushroom with Asiago and Goat cheese plus smoked Salmon with vanilla citrus cream and pickled onions on Pumpernickel crustini’s. Either one will be on the list of things to order for a return visit! We next chose one dish from the daily special sheet and one from the main menu for our entrees. The special was Egg Rotini with Crayfish, Scallops, Yellow Pepper, Celery and mushrooms in a Creole sauce finished with Feta cheese. While the second taken from the main menu was Elk steak, baby potatoes, a Yam Parsnip Rutabaga hash, with a Rosehip, Pancetta chili sauce. I really don’t need to say anything else except that the menu has dozens of other choices equally as tantalizing ranging from oven baked flatbreads to Saffron Linguine with Clams, Mussels and Scallops. You’re going to have to return to get the full experience!
The wine list at Cilantro offers a wide range of options by country as well as an extensive list by the glass. We chose that route ordering a glass of Cline Ancient Vines Zinfandel from California and Cloudy Bay Chardonnay from New Zealand as a complement to our entrees. For those of you who like a lightly oaked Chardonnay, Cloudy Bay is an excellent option.
Dessert was a home made Cranberry Sorbet with Blueberries and Blackberries providing a refreshing finish to the meal. That plus some coffee and tea and another evening dining experience is complete.
Cilantro proves that restaurants that serve fine quality and innovative cuisine are here to stay in Calgary and should not be left off anyone’s list of places to dine! As always any comments or suggestions can be directed to sgourmet@telus.net.
Cilantro
338, 17th Avenue SW
403-229-1177
Food ****
Service *****
Price $12.00 – $34.00
Share This Column